Oh, how beautiful is Panama! Back in Punta Chame

Welcome back

Two years ago, I worked a full season in Panama. Now I’m finally back – this time as a guest. And honestly? It feels like home right away. 

From a freezing -20 to 25 degrees in ten hours 

The journey is the usual winter chaos: snow, rain, ice – classic Germany. Then the direct flight from Frankfurt takes off and when I step out in Panama City, I’m greeted by 25 degrees and sunshine. Can’t beat it. 

Our driver Ali is already there, grinning, and snatches my kite gear before I can even say “Hola”. Two and a half hours later we roll into the station in the dark. Warm moonlight and on-site lights guide the way. The plan for the evening? A welcome beer on the neighbors’ balcony – then crash into bed. 

The first days: arrive, enjoy, be amazed 

Thanks to jet lag, I’m up at 5:30 a.m. The wind gods, however, take the first two days off. But hey – plenty of time to visit old friends in the village, meet the crew, and settle in. We take it easy: sun, great food, maybe a beer a bit too early in the day. In the evening, a round of Wizard wraps things up nicely. 

To the zoo without fences

Next day we head out on the water. We’ve booked a boat trip to the Otoque Islands, three tiny islets right off Punta Chame. Just about 25 minutes by boat, and it feels like another world. The islands are famous for bird rookeries – frigatebirds with their bright red throat pouches, pelicans, boobies – incredible variety, all without fences or tickets. Pure nature.

Dolphins escort us on the way, dancing beside the boat as if showing the route. We toss a line in, just in case. And sure enough: by day’s end we’ve got enough jackfish on board to feed not only us but half the camp.

On Otoque we take a short walk across the island. Two tiny, sleepy villages where time seems to stand still. About 200 people live off fishing and farming, and as a visitor you feel almost like a castaway – just with cell service.

The absolute highlight hits on the way back: hundreds of pelicans diving in unison the moment they spot a baitball. A thunderous splash, water flying everywhere – then they pop up one by one, beaks full of fish. You have to see it to believe it.

Back at the station, it’s fresh jackfish ceviche first, caught by ourselves. And as if that’s not enough, our chef Franklin serves fried fish in the evening and a tartare that leaves nothing to be desired. What a day.

From bed to board

Quick Windfinder check before sleep and – YESS – all red! With that grin, I’m out like a light. 

At six I’m wide awake. Sneak out, nose to the wind, and know: today we fly. I grab the 12 from the terrace, sprint to the compressor, and go. The lagoon at mid tide is a dream – perfect flat water for tricks. 

Midday the wind eases. Time for siesta, fish tacos, and tequeños. In the afternoon it cranks. I switch to the 10 and can practically smell ten meters. 

Then the moment we live for: sundowner session. The sun drops red-orange into the sea, the sky explodes in color. We kite till dark and our legs give out. After? Fast pizza, a beer, and bed. Tomorrow should be the same. 

Downwinder to the sandbanks

The tide is perfect next day. We do a downwinder to the sandbanks – glassy flat water, steady wind, turquoise sea. A local boat takes us about 20 minutes upwind, then we hop off on a small sandbank right by John Wayne Island. Little pools everywhere, iron-flat water. What’s better? Honestly, nothing. 

Hidden lagoons and passion fruit mojitos

On weekends, locals from Panama City come to Punta Chame. Many cheer the kiters from the shoreline – love that vibe. 

Today is discovery day. We kite along mangroves and find a hidden lagoon with just four of us riding. Spots like this hardly exist anymore. That feeling when you know you’re witnessing something special – priceless. 

After the session we sit by the pool, watch the last kiters at sunset, and order passion fruit mojitos. One becomes three. Or four. Dinner is enjoyed slightly tipsy, spirits couldn’t be higher. The evening fades with music and cocktails. 

The best hangover cure

Next morning the fix is simple: strap on the kite and jump in. Ten minutes later, hangover gone. Add an açaí bowl – or for the brave, Eggs Benedict – plus a big coffee, and you’re back among the living. 

The sore muscles kick in

Legs and core are burning, and a windless day would be nice. Not here. So we carry on: early start thanks to jet lag, coffee and smoothie bowl, pump the kite, head out. Short midday break, rig a size smaller for the afternoon, and ride into the sunset. That’s my idea of a perfect kite trip. 

At night I’m wiped, so after dinner I’m done. Well, almost. We have to hit Happy Corner for a few drinks. Conveniently, it’s reggaeton night. Time to prove Germans have zero rhythm as I swing my concrete hips among the locals. 

Who needs excursions when it’s windy?

We actually had a few trips on our list.

Panama City and the Canal – watch massive container ships inch through one of the world’s most famous waterways, plus the skyline, chaos, and urban flair. We truly meant to go.

Las Cajones de Chame – a wild river gorge carved by the Río Chame over centuries. Turquoise water, high cliffs, natural pools, and cliff jumps for the brave. 

Cerro Chame – a 525-meter peak on our doorstep with a summit view over the whole coast, mangroves, the kite spot, even Panama City on the horizon. About 1.5 hours up, best at sunrise. Sounds amazing, right?

The waterfalls in the Sorá highlands – hidden in green, perfect for cooling off, surrounded by jungle and the sound of water. Just right after a hot day and my personal highlight. 

But – and yes, total luxury problem – it blew too much every single day. Each time we said “Tomorrow we’ll do something else,” the morning wind made the choice for us. We simply couldn’t get off the water. The excursion list stayed untouched – and honestly? No regrets at all.

Departure: See you soon, Panama

And just like that, ten days in paradise fly by. Around noon Ali picks us up. On the way to the airport he asks how it was. By the time we finish raving, we’re there. One last hug, then back on the plane to chilly Germany. 

One thing’s for sure: we’ll be back. 

Oh, wie schön ist Panama!